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Lincoln County Master Gardener™ Association

Using a Greenhouse (KYAQ Audio)

In this edition of the Lincoln County Gardner, guest host Larry King talks with Master Gardener Tom Green about how he uses his new greenhouse. They share tips and tricks for growing vegetables in the greenhouse environment.

Here are some samples of plants growing in Larry King's hoop-house style greenhouse (photos courtesy of Larry King). Featured image of tomato starts, also by Larry King.
It's a big raised bed, but 3 zuchini plants will fill up this space in no time. Note the drip lines. They are on a timer that will provide just the right amount of water with no waste.
These determinate tomatoes got 6 feet tall even before they started setting fruit. Things can get big and tall in a greenhouse. Plan accordingly.
Even tender warm-weather plants like basil can be started in an unheated greenhouse. Visible beneath the planting tray is a thermostat-controlled heating mat to ensure the soil stays warm. These were grown for the Lincoln County Master Gardner Plant Sale (held in May every year).
Of course, your greenhouse is not limited to vegetables. They're a great place to overwinter succulents and wonderful for starting your hanging baskets and annual garden flowers early.

Building a Greenhouse (KYAQ Audio)

In this edition of the Lincoln County Gardner, guest host Larry King talks with Master Gardener Tom Green about building a greenhouse to extend the growing season here in Lincoln County.

Tom Green's Greenhouse from foundation to finished product. Photos courtesy of Tom Green.
Larry King's greenhouse, illustrating the hoop-house style of construction (image provided by Larry King).

Growing Vegetables with Worm Castings

Worm Poo, do your plants love it?

With my Master Gardener™ Apprentice Project I hoped to show whether or not feeding plants using worm castings (also called vermicompost) and worm casting tea resulted in healthier, more productive plants.

I started with two beds, each receiving the same amount of sunlight and having the same growing conditions, as well as starting with the same soil type and nutrient density in each bed. I planted the same plants in the same location in each bed: 1 Tomato, 1 Zucchini, 5 Green Beans, 1 Pepper, 2 Cilantro.

I already had an “under the counter worm bin” that was home to red wigglers as well as an old cooler that I used as another worm bin, so I had access to plenty of worm castings to use. I feed them garden scraps as needed and topped them with dried plant material and a layer of cardboard.

When I planted the Worm Bed I included a handful of worm castings into each planting hole, I also scuffed worm castings into the top of the soil around each plant; the control bed was planted directly into the existing soil with no added fertilizers.

I added more worm casting to the worm bed 3 times during the growing season, about once a month I would scuff a handful of worm castings into the soil around each plant. I also watered it with worm casting tea at least once a month. Both beds received the same amount of water throughout the season.

The final produce count for each bed:

Worm bed: 44 Green Beans, 6 Zucchini, 1 bunch of Cilantro, 3 Tomatoes, 1 Pepper,
Control Bed:
31 Green Beans, 3 Zucchini, 1 Tomato,

The worm bed produced more on each plant, the plants grew
faster as well, though this slowed down around the middle to the end of season.

I never noticed any pests on any of the plants so I can’t say if the worm bed was more pest resistant or not but in the last few weeks the tomato in the worm bed has begun to look sickly; yellowing and dying leaves, and now mold has started to grow on it’s main stem. This could be due to over-watering but with so many people in and out of the garden it’s hard to tell.

Red Wiggler Worm Eisenia andrei

Red Wiggler—Eisenia andrei

Overall, I think that the worm bed produced healthier, faster growing plants; they produced more and started producing sooner than the control bed. Worms are easy to feed and care for and make a safe and easy to use nutrient boost for your plants! They don’t require much attention other than occasional feedings, and they like to eat most garden and kitchen scraps.

To set up your own worm bin:

  • Find a container, two nested plastic bins work well, the top will have drainage holes and will house the worms and their bedding and the bottom will collect the leachate (a dark liquid that is rich in beneficial microbes and nutrients – mix with water and feed to your plants)
  • Fill the top bin with 4 to 6 inches of damp bedding, shredded paper or newspaper (nothing glossy), cardboard, coconut coir, leaves, or dried grass or plant material. Soak or dampen the bedding before adding to the bin.
  • Worms don’t have teeth so they need grit to help grind the food, add a handful of garden soil or ground egg shells to the bin (I like to mix a shovelful of native soil with the bedding).
  • Add your worms! Place them on top of the bedding and they will burrow down to escape the light.
  • Red wigglers are most active in a temperature range of 55-77°, they will eat less if temperatures are hotter or cooler than this. Place in a garage or somewhere protected during extreme cold or heat.
  • Maintain moisture level, if too wet add more bedding, if too dry add water but don’t water too often to avoid anaerobic conditions.
  • Feed your worms fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and filters, tea bags, and crushed eggshells. For faster decomposition you can chop scraps into smaller pieces if you want.
  • Do not add meat, dairy products, oily foods, pet waste, acidic items such as citrus, or onion or garlic (onion and garlic skin is fine to add).
  • For a new bin feed slowly at first, adding food about once a week and only adding what the worms can eat within that week.
  • Bury the food in a new location in the bin each week (if possible), bury under the top layer of bedding, covering food to help prevent fruit flies and odors.
Your vermicompost will be ready to harvest in three to six months, it will look like rich, dark soil.You can add another bin directly on top of current bedding material (will require drainage holes big enough for the worms to pass through). Add bedding and start feeding in the new bin. After a few weeks the worms will have left the old bin and will be feeding in the new bin.
Dump the bin onto a tarp under a bright light, the worms will burrow down to escape the light. You can scrape off the top layer of castings and repeat as the worms burrow deeper.

Images Courtesy of Oregon State University Extension Service.
You can find out more about worm casting composting here:
https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/em-9034-composting-worms

Keyhole Gardens (KYAQ Audio)

In this edition of the Lincoln County Gardner, Ross McCann talks with Master Gardener Mary Jane Bonelitz about the history, creation and features of a keyhole garden.

Mary Jane Bonelitz designed and the Lincoln County Master Gardeners built this cottage stone Keyhole Garden in the Demonstration Garden in Lincoln City. Featured image of wooden keyhole garden courtesy of Sage at https://sagesacre.com.

Growing Garlic (KYAQ Audio)

In this edition of the Lincoln County Gardner, Ross McCann talks with Master Gardener Joan Crall about growing garlic on the Oregon coast.

Raised garlic bed in South Beach Demonstration Garden. Photo by Steve Vogel. Featured image of garlic bulbs by jacqueline macou from Pixabay.

Gardening In Raised Beds (KYAQ Audio)

In this edition of the Lincoln County Gardner, Ross McCann talks with Master Gardener Larry King about gardening using raised beds. Raised beds can help increase soil temperature for better plant growth as well as a variety of other benefits.

Raised bed in Demonstration Garden, Waldport. Photo by Larry King. Featured image by Steve Vogel showing tall raised bed for vegetable production in South Beach Demonstration Garden.

Growing Apple Trees in Lincoln County

Oregon growing areas for fruits are determined largely by climate. Fruit trees may successfully be grown outside of the areas outlined in the area map, but local climate conditions should be considered wherever trees are planted. The climate map and planting recommendations are courtesy of Oregon State Extension Service.

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Gala Apple

Lincoln County is in coastal Area 4, and Low summer temperatures and rain limit fruit growing. Choosing apple varieties can be particularly important along the coast.

Further east in Lincoln County (think Eddyville, Tidewater, etc.) the Growing Area is more similar to that of the mid-valley and you will have access to additional varieties.

Below are those varieties that will flourish in at least one of Lincoln County's Growing Areas:

Lincoln County Apples

Variety

Areas suited

Approximate time of maturity

Comments

Lodi

1–4 July Self-compatiblea; tart, yellow fruit

Earligold

1–4 August Crisp, yellow fruit

Akaneb

1–4 August Self-compatible; crisp, red fruit

Gravenstein

1, 4 August Prefers mild climate; large, flavorful fruit

Chehalisb

1–4 September Self-compatible; fruit are large, yellow, crisp, sweet, and juicy

Elstar

1, 4 September Prefers mild climate; tart, flavorful fruit

Gala

1–4 September Red fruit are sweet, crisp, and juicy; stores well; heat-tolerant

Jonagold

1, 4 September Prefers mild climate; red fruit are sweet, crisp and juicy

Primab

1–4 September Red fruit are crisp and juicy

Empire

1, 2 late September Semi self-compatible; red fruit are sweet and very crisp

Delicious

1, 2 late September Sweet, red fruit; stores well

Libertyb

1–4 late September Red fruit are crisp, sweet and tart

Braeburn

1, 2 October Red fruit are crisp and sweet; stores well; productive

Fuji

1, 2 October Red fruit are very sweet and juicy; stores well

Golden Delicious

1, 2 October Yellow fruit are crisp and juicy; very productive

Granny Smith

1, 2 October Tart, green fruit; stores well

Newtown Pippin

1, 2 October Green to yellow fruit; flavor improves in storage

bThis variety is resistant to some common diseases like apple scab and powdery mildew.

Other Considerations

Pollination is necessary for fruit production. Some varieties of apples will require a compatible tree for fertilization. The chart above can help you choose compatible or self-compatible trees.

Jonagold1

Jonagold Apple

Apple trees are most productive and healthiest when sited in a location that receives at least six hours of light per day during the growing season. Find the spot likely to receive the most sun in your coastal garden and your trees will thrive.

Even though watering worries are reduced in coastal areas, apples still require regular, even moisture. Water when the top inch of soil is dry and the soil 6 inches below the surface is barely moist. Water deeply enough to ensure penetration down to at least 3 to 4 feet deep. Older trees are more self-sufficient but should still be watered deeply during dry summer periods.

Feed your apple trees three to four times during the growing season with an organic, well-balanced fertilizer. Avoid fertilizers too high in nitrogen, as they stimulate leafy growth at the expense of fruit production. A 2- to 3-inch layer of compost as a top-dressing helps retain water and discourages weeds.

The long term success of your apple trees depend upon initial training and pruning during the first three years. For healthy, productive fruit trees, get tips from your local extension office or follow this OSU home orchard pruning and training guide.

Book Review: Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades

Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades, Updated 6th Edition: The Complete Guide to Organic Gardening 6 Updated Edition, Steve Solomon, Sasquatch Books. Seattle, 2013, 356 pgs.

ISBN-13: 978-1570618970

Whether you are new to the Oregon Coast or have gardened here for years, Steve Solomon's book will be a much thumbed reference for all types of vegetables. The latest version, a special updated 6th edition, addresses issues of soil, seeds, compost, watering, planting times, harvesting and so much more. Steve Solomon, who founded the Territorial Seed Company, was one of the early advocates of organic gardening and benefits of small-plot vegetable gardening in the Pacific Northwest. The advice is practical and suitable for all skill levels.

This is a great resource!