With my Master Gardener™ Apprentice Project I hoped to show whether or not feeding plants using worm castings (also called vermicompost) and worm casting tea resulted in healthier, more productive plants.
I started with two beds, each receiving the same amount of sunlight and having the same growing conditions, as well as starting with the same soil type and nutrient density in each bed. I planted the same plants in the same location in each bed: 1 Tomato, 1 Zucchini, 5 Green Beans, 1 Pepper, 2 Cilantro.
I already had an “under the counter worm bin” that was home to red wigglers as well as an old cooler that I used as another worm bin, so I had access to plenty of worm castings to use. I feed them garden scraps as needed and topped them with dried plant material and a layer of cardboard.
When I planted the Worm Bed I included a handful of worm castings into each planting hole, I also scuffed worm castings into the top of the soil around each plant; the control bed was planted directly into the existing soil with no added fertilizers.
I added more worm casting to the worm bed 3 times during the growing season, about once a month I would scuff a handful of worm castings into the soil around each plant. I also watered it with worm casting tea at least once a month. Both beds received the same amount of water throughout the season.
The final produce count for each bed:
Worm bed: 44 Green Beans, 6 Zucchini, 1 bunch of Cilantro, 3 Tomatoes, 1 Pepper, Control Bed: 31 Green Beans, 3 Zucchini, 1 Tomato,
The worm bed produced more on each plant, the plants grew faster as well, though this slowed down around the middle to the end of season.
I never noticed any pests on any of the plants so I can’t say if the worm bed was more pest resistant or not but in the last few weeks the tomato in the worm bed has begun to look sickly; yellowing and dying leaves, and now mold has started to grow on it’s main stem. This could be due to over-watering but with so many people in and out of the garden it’s hard to tell.
Red Wiggler—Eisenia andrei
Overall, I think that the worm bed produced healthier, faster growing plants; they produced more and started producing sooner than the control bed. Worms are easy to feed and care for and make a safe and easy to use nutrient boost for your plants! They don’t require much attention other than occasional feedings, and they like to eat most garden and kitchen scraps.
To set up your own worm bin:
Find a container, two nested plastic bins work well, the top will have drainage holes and will house the worms and their bedding and the bottom will collect the leachate (a dark liquid that is rich in beneficial microbes and nutrients – mix with water and feed to your plants)
Fill the top bin with 4 to 6 inches of damp bedding, shredded paper or newspaper (nothing glossy), cardboard, coconut coir, leaves, or dried grass or plant material. Soak or dampen the bedding before adding to the bin.
Worms don’t have teeth so they need grit to help grind the food, add a handful of garden soil or ground egg shells to the bin (I like to mix a shovelful of native soil with the bedding).
Add your worms! Place them on top of the bedding and they will burrow down to escape the light.
Red wigglers are most active in a temperature range of 55-77°, they will eat less if temperatures are hotter or cooler than this. Place in a garage or somewhere protected during extreme cold or heat.
Maintain moisture level, if too wet add more bedding, if too dry add water but don’t water too often to avoid anaerobic conditions.
Feed your worms fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and filters, tea bags, and crushed eggshells. For faster decomposition you can chop scraps into smaller pieces if you want.
Do not add meat, dairy products, oily foods, pet waste, acidic items such as citrus, or onion or garlic (onion and garlic skin is fine to add).
For a new bin feed slowly at first, adding food about once a week and only adding what the worms can eat within that week.
Bury the food in a new location in the bin each week (if possible), bury under the top layer of bedding, covering food to help prevent fruit flies and odors.
Your vermicompost will be ready to harvest in three to six months, it will look like rich, dark soil.You can add another bin directly on top of current bedding material (will require drainage holes big enough for the worms to pass through). Add bedding and start feeding in the new bin. After a few weeks the worms will have left the old bin and will be feeding in the new bin.
Dump the bin onto a tarp under a bright light, the worms will burrow down to escape the light. You can scrape off the top layer of castings and repeat as the worms burrow deeper.
If you've spent any time gardening in the Pacific Northwest, you are probably very familiar with slugs and the damage they cause to plants. These hungry little mollusks love our damp, temperate environment. Whenever we have wet weather, we're likely to find them out and munching away on our most delicate plants, leaving holes in leaves and the telltale slime trail behind them.
As gardeners, we all have to decide how much damage we are willing to tolerate from pests. Slugs eating a few holes in plants may be OK, but if they start to eat entire plants and all of your seedlings, that's a problem. Our native slugs, such as banana slugs, are important parts of the ecosystem, digesting decaying plant matter and putting nutrients back into the soil. They are rarely a problem in gardens. It's the invasive varieties like gray field slugs, brown slugs, and leopard slugs that are very damaging to home gardens and commercial crops.
Luckily, there are some research-backed methods you can use to minimize slug damage. In this article, we briefly cover slug anatomy and habitat, provide tips on how to make your garden less slug friendly, and give details on how to use a simple bread dough slurry to attract and kill them. Slugs and snails are closely related and so the recommendations for slugs apply to snails as well.
It helps to understand some basics about the slugs lifestyle. Slugs are gastropods, gastro meaning stomach and pod meaning foot. Basically, they are walking stomachs and yes, they are coming for your hostas and juicy new lettuce sprouts. They have two sets of tentacles, one to sense light and one for taste and smell. They have a radula, small file-like teeth used to grasp and chew, and make holes in plant leaves as they eat. Perhaps their most famous characteristic is the protective slime coating that helps keep them from drying out. You can often identify slug damage by finding slime trails on the ground and on plants. The slime coating also gives clues about their preferred habitat. They need moist environments and are active mostly at night or when it is cloudy. You'll generally find more of them in the spring and fall.
Another critical point to know is that they are extremely prolific. They are hermaphrodites, meaning they have both male and female reproductive organs. Every animal can lay eggs, and they lay up to forty eggs at a time. Even though slugs only live for 6-18 months, they can lay over 500 eggs in that time. That's a lot of slugs! It also explains why it is so important to start managing their numbers as soon as you start noticing signs of slugs, like those slug trails, and damage on your plants. They (and their eggs) overwinter in the soil and can quickly decimate plants when they emerge in the spring.
There are things you can do to make your garden less friendly to slugs. You can minimize the damp areas of your garden by limbing up trees and shrubs to get more light underneath them, keeping leaf litter to a minimum, and using mulch. You can also encourage their predators. Garden snakes, salamanders, frogs, and some beetles will eat slugs, as will birds, including chickens and ducks. Even so, unless your garden is very dry all year, you'll likely have at least some slugs.
One relatively easy and cheap way to kill slugs is to use a bread dough slurry. The slurry is a similar idea to using beer traps but lets you skip the step of hauling home large quantities of cheap beer and getting odd looks from your neighbors. The advantage of using the bread dough slurry is that it uses commonly found, inexpensive ingredients. The disadvantage is that you do have to monitor it and make sure you have it in a place where you are catching slugs. It can smell, especially when it gets warm. It isn't toxic to other animals but be sure to keep it away from dogs.
An angled Container makes easy access to "slug beach."
To make the bread dough slurry, mix 1 cup of flour, 1 package of yeast, and 2-3 cups to warm water. You can easily double the recipe. Collect some clean plastic or glass containers--large yogurt containers work well--and pour in a couple inches of slurry. For each container, dig a hole and place the container deep enough that the rim is at soil level. You can also dig a smaller hole and put the container in at an angle, making more of a beach for the slugs to crawl in. As noted, slugs do have a sense of smell and are attracted to the slurry. They'll fall in and drown. Replace the slurry every few days, or at least remove the dead slugs and add more water if it has dried up.
If you have a serious slug problem or a particular plant you are trying to protect, there are a couple extra steps you can take. Put the warm slurry down in the evening or early morning and come back an hour later to check it. Chances are there are many slugs heading for that party. Wearing gloves (slug slime is really hard to wash off your hands), pick off all the slugs. Be sure to check around the damaged plants as well, and you may need to do this for several nights in a row. Some will get caught in the slurry, but this helps you catch any that try to escape.
There are many ways to get dispose of the live slugs, but one easy way to kill them quickly is to fill a tall jar, like a peanut container, with water and a squeeze of dish soap. Put the slugs right into the jar and they'll die quickly.
So, keep your eye out for slugs and start treating them as soon as you see signs of them. By providing fewer places for them to live, encouraging predators, putting yeast slurry in strategic spots, and hunting them down, you can help your garden be less of a slug buffet.
Oregon growing areas for fruits are determined largely by climate. Fruit trees may successfully be grown outside of the areas outlined in the area map, but local climate conditions should be considered wherever trees are planted. The climate map and planting recommendations are courtesy of Oregon State Extension Service.
Gala Apple
Lincoln County is in coastal Area 4, and Low summer temperatures and rain limit fruit growing. Choosing apple varieties can be particularly important along the coast.
Further east in Lincoln County (think Eddyville, Tidewater, etc.) the Growing Area is more similar to that of the mid-valley and you will have access to additional varieties.
Below are those varieties that will flourish in at least one of Lincoln County's Growing Areas:
Lincoln County Apples
Variety
Areas suited
Approximate time of maturity
Comments
Lodi
1–4
July
Self-compatiblea; tart, yellow fruit
Earligold
1–4
August
Crisp, yellow fruit
Akaneb
1–4
August
Self-compatible; crisp, red fruit
Gravenstein
1, 4
August
Prefers mild climate; large, flavorful fruit
Chehalisb
1–4
September
Self-compatible; fruit are large, yellow, crisp, sweet, and juicy
Elstar
1, 4
September
Prefers mild climate; tart, flavorful fruit
Gala
1–4
September
Red fruit are sweet, crisp, and juicy; stores well; heat-tolerant
Jonagold
1, 4
September
Prefers mild climate; red fruit are sweet, crisp and juicy
Primab
1–4
September
Red fruit are crisp and juicy
Empire
1, 2
late September
Semi self-compatible; red fruit are sweet and very crisp
Delicious
1, 2
late September
Sweet, red fruit; stores well
Libertyb
1–4
late September
Red fruit are crisp, sweet and tart
Braeburn
1, 2
October
Red fruit are crisp and sweet; stores well; productive
Fuji
1, 2
October
Red fruit are very sweet and juicy; stores well
Golden Delicious
1, 2
October
Yellow fruit are crisp and juicy; very productive
Granny Smith
1, 2
October
Tart, green fruit; stores well
Newtown Pippin
1, 2
October
Green to yellow fruit; flavor improves in storage
Other Considerations
Pollination is necessary for fruit production. Some varieties of apples will require a compatible tree for fertilization. The chart above can help you choose compatible or self-compatible trees.
Jonagold Apple
Apple trees are most productive and healthiest when sited in a location that receives at least six hours of light per day during the growing season. Find the spot likely to receive the most sun in your coastal garden and your trees will thrive.
Even though watering worries are reduced in coastal areas, apples still require regular, even moisture. Water when the top inch of soil is dry and the soil 6 inches below the surface is barely moist. Water deeply enough to ensure penetration down to at least 3 to 4 feet deep. Older trees are more self-sufficient but should still be watered deeply during dry summer periods.
Feed your apple trees three to four times during the growing season with an organic, well-balanced fertilizer. Avoid fertilizers too high in nitrogen, as they stimulate leafy growth at the expense of fruit production. A 2- to 3-inch layer of compost as a top-dressing helps retain water and discourages weeds.
The long term success of your apple trees depend upon initial training and pruning during the first three years. For healthy, productive fruit trees, get tips from your local extension office or follow this OSU home orchard pruning and training guide.
Bees play an essential role in our ecosystem by pollinating plants, which allows for the growth of fruits, vegetables, and seeds. However, bees are facing increasing threats from habitat loss, pesticide use, and climate change. One effective way to support these vital creatures is by planting native plants that provide the forage and habitats they need to thrive.
The Importance of Bee Plants
When we refer to "bee plants," we are talking about plants that provides nectar and pollen for bees. These plants are crucial for bees. Many species of bees are specialized and require specific types of plants for food. Native plants are particularly beneficial because they have co-evolved with local bee species, creating a natural synergy that enhances pollination efficiency.
One of the critical benefits of native plants is that they bloom at different times throughout the growing season. This ensures that bees have access to food sources throughout the year. For instance, early bloomers like crocus and snowdrops can provide much-needed sustenance for bees emerging from hibernation in early spring. Late bloomers such as goldenrods and blanket flower can keep bees fed well into autumn.
Additionally, native plants are adapted to the local soil conditions and climate, requiring less water and maintenance compared to non-native species. This attribute allows for a more sustainable gardening approach, which is appealing for individuals aiming to create bee-friendly landscapes.
Planting Native Bee Plants
Creating a bee-friendly garden starts with choosing the right plants. Here are a few native plants that can attract bees:
Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea): A vibrant flower that bees love, it attracts a variety of bee species. It blooms from mid-summer to early fall.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): This sunflower-like plant has a long blooming season and is effective in attracting bees.
Douglas Aster (Symphyotrichum subspicatum):This plant has bright violet flowers and edible leaves and is adaptable to various soil types.
Remember to incorporate plants that bloom in different seasons to provide ongoing food sources for bees. You can learn more about other native plants on the Lincoln County Master Gardener website
Coneflowers attract various bee species.
The Role of Native Plants in Ecosystems
Beyond providing food for bees, native plants play a significant role in supporting the overall health of ecosystems. They create habitats for a diverse range of wildlife, including birds, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. Native plants also contribute to soil health by improving its structure and fertility, which benefits all garden inhabitants.
A study conducted by the Center for Pollinator Research at Penn State University found that habitats with a higher diversity of native plants support a more abundant and diverse bee population. This means that not only do individual bee species benefit, but the overall health of the bee community is enhanced as well.
Additionally, native plants help mitigate issues like soil erosion and water runoff. Their deep root systems stabilize the soil, promoting healthier landscapes. This is essential in urban environments where natural habitats have been drastically altered.
Image by XXXX of Pixabay
Diverse native plants create a healthy ecosystem.
How to Encourage Bees in Your Garden
Creating a bee-friendly garden will require some intentional planning. Here are a few actionable steps you can take:
Choose Native Plants: Opt for a mix of flowering plants that bloom at different times of the year. This ensures that bees have a consistent source of food.
Avoid Pesticides: Many pesticides are harmful to bees. If necessary, choose alternatives that are safe for pollinators or consider organic gardening methods.
Create Nesting Sites: Provide nesting habitats for bees by leaving patches of bare ground, or consider building bee hotels for solitary bee species.
Reduce Lawn Space: Lawns provide little to no food for bees. Reduce the amount of lawn area by replacing it with native flowering plants.
Incorporating these practices can significantly impact your local bee populations, empowering them to flourish and continue their crucial work in our ecosystems.
Join the Movement
As individuals, gardens can be a vital part of restoring healthy environments for bees. By advocating for native plants, you are not only helping pollinators but also fostering an ecosystem that benefits everyone. Engage with local groups or community gardens that focus on conservation efforts.
Volunteering for native plant restoration projects or educating your community about the importance of bees can amplify the impact. The more awareness we create regarding the needs of these essential creatures, the more we can work together to protect them.
Final Thoughts on Native Bee Plants
In summary, native plants are essential for bees as they provide the necessary food and habitat for these critical pollinators. By planting native flowers, avoiding harmful pesticides, and fostering a bee-friendly garden, we can contribute positively to the wellbeing of bees and the environment as a whole.
Taking small steps toward creating a bee sanctuary will create a ripple effect in your local ecosystem, supporting not just bees, but countless other forms of wildlife. Let us reconnect with nature and make choices that protect it for generations to come.
The Importance of Native Plants in Local Ecosystems
Native plants are more than just beautiful and familiar sights in our local parks and gardens. They play a crucial role in the health of local ecosystems, providing numerous benefits to wildlife and the environment. In this blog post, we will explore why native plants are essential, how they support local wildlife, and practical tips for incorporating them into your home landscape.
What are Native Plants?
Native plants are species that naturally occur in a specific region without human intervention. They have adapted to the local climate, soil types, and other environmental conditions over thousands of years. This makes them well-suited to thrive in their native habitats.
In the Pacific Northwest, you'll find native plants such as salal, red huckleberry, and Oregon grape. These plants have evolved alongside local wildlife, forming essential relationships that help sustain the ecosystem. Even against the harsh conditions of the Oregon Coast, you will find a thriving and bio-diverse ecology of native plants.
Benefits of Native Plants
Native plants offer a range of benefits for the environment and our communities. Here are some key advantages:
1. Supporting Local Wildlife
One of the most significant benefits of native plants is their ability to provide habitat and food for local wildlife. Many species of birds, insects, and mammals rely on native plants for sustenance. For example:
Birds: Native berry-producing plants, like the Pacific blackberry, provide crucial food sources for birds during breeding seasons.
Pollinators: Native flowering plants attract essential pollinators, such as bees and butterflies, which are vital for the reproduction of many plant species.
High angle view of a diverse native plant garden showcasing the variety of plants that support local wildlife.
2. Promoting Biodiversity
Incorporating native plants into landscapes promotes biodiversity, which is vital for a healthy ecosystem. Biodiversity helps ecosystems remain resilient to diseases, pests, and environmental changes. When native species thrive, they support a more diverse community of organisms, contributing to the overall health of the ecosystem.
3. Enhancing Soil Health
Native plants are adapted to local soil conditions and can contribute to soil health. Their root systems help prevent erosion, increase water infiltration, and maintain soil structure. This is essential for promoting healthy landscapes and reducing the need for chemical fertilizers and pesticides.
4. Water Conservation
Native plants often require less water than non-native, ornamental plants. They are adapted to local rainfall patterns, which means they thrive with minimal irrigation. This makes them an excellent choice for sustainable gardening, particularly in areas prone to drought. Additionally, by using native plants in landscaping, individuals can contribute to water conservation efforts.
5. Reducing Maintenance
Native plants generally require less maintenance than non-native species. They are adapted to local conditions and pests, which means they typically require fewer interventions such as watering, fertilizing, and pest control. This not only saves time and effort but also reduces the environmental impact associated with maintaining non-native gardens.
How to Incorporate Native Plants into Your Landscape
If you're interested in supporting local ecosystems through your gardening practices, here are some practical tips for incorporating native plants into your landscape:
1. Research Local Native Species
Identify the native plants that thrive in your region. Look for resources from local horticultural organizations, conservation groups, or cooperative extension services. Although you may not dig up plants from local forests, you may discover beautiful species that are perfect for your garden. Many local garden centers have sections for Oregon Coast natives.
2. Design a Native Plant Garden
When designing your garden, consider the following:
Diversity: Plant a variety of species to create layers of habitat for different animals.
Sunlight and Shade: Group plants according to their sunlight requirements.
Watering Needs: Group plants with similar water needs to create efficient watering zones.
3. Use Native Plants in Landscaping Projects
When planning landscaping projects, such as installing a new garden bed or renovating a yard, consider using native plants. Not only will this support local wildlife, but it can also enhance your property's visuals and appeal.
4. Educate Others
Share your knowledge about the importance of native plants and their role in local ecosystems. Engage friends, family, and neighbors in conversations about sustainability and encourage them to consider native plants in their own gardening practices.
The Role of Native Plants in Climate Resilience
As climate change continues to affect ecosystems across the globe, native plants play a crucial role in promoting climate resilience. Their adaptability to local conditions means they can respond more effectively to climate variations. This resilience is essential for maintaining the ecological balance in local environments.
Furthermore, planting native species can mitigate the impacts of climate change, such as flooding and heatwaves. They can enhance soil health and water retention, which helps buffer communities against extreme weather events.
Final Thoughts
Embracing native plants in our landscapes is more than a trend; it is a vital step towards fostering healthy, sustainable ecosystems. These plants support local wildlife, improve biodiversity, and enhance the overall health of our environment.
Adapting Your Garden to Coastal Weather Conditions
Gardening along the coast presents unique challenges and opportunities. The salty air, unpredictable winds, and shifting temperatures require specific strategies to create a thriving garden. From selecting the right plants to understanding when to plant, adapting to coastal weather conditions is an essential aspect of effective gardening. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or just starting out, discover how to make your coastal garden flourish.
A coastal garden thriving with native plants
Coastal Gardening: Understanding Your Environment
Coastal gardening differs significantly from traditional gardening due to various environmental factors. The primary challenges include high salinity, strong winds, and specific soil conditions. Coastal regions often have sandy soil that drains quickly, making water retention a key concern. Understanding these factors will help in choosing the right plants and implementation of effective gardening techniques.
One effective way to adapt to coastal weather is to use windbreaks and barriers. Planting shrubs or erecting fences can shield your garden from harsh winds. Moreover, these structures can also help in retaining moisture in the soil. Native plants are often more resilient to coastal conditions, so look for those that naturally thrive in your area.
A coastal garden thriving with native plants in a protected environment.
Selecting the Right Plants for Your Coastal Garden
Choosing the right plants is crucial for the success of your coastal garden. Opt for native species that have adapted to withstand salt, wind, and drought. These plants not only survive but also enhance the local ecosystem. Consider incorporating the following types of plants into your garden:
Beach Strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis) - This hardy plant produces delicious berries and thrives in sandy soils.
Sea Oats (Uniola paniculata) - A grass that stabilizes dunes and adds beauty to your garden, it provides natural protection against erosion.
Lavender (Lavandula) - With its drought-resistant qualities, lavender performs well in coastal areas and attracts pollinators.
In addition to native plants, consider perennial varieties that can handle the temperature fluctuations often seen in coastal environments. These plants will return year after year, providing reliable color and texture.
Beach strawberries (Fragaria chiloensis) used as a groundcover
When to Plant on the Oregon Coast?
Timing your planting is essential for thriving coastal gardens. The Oregon coast has a distinct growing season influenced by maritime climate. Generally, the best time to start planting in this region is between late April and early June after the risk of frost has passed.
Keep in mind that the coastal weather can vary significantly from day to day. Be prepared for unexpected temperature drops, which can affect young plants. Using row covers or cold frames can protect them during unexpected cold snaps in the early spring.
Additionally, fall planting can be a good option for certain perennials and bulbs. Ensure you choose plants known for their hardiness to guarantee survival through the winter months, as coastal winters can be mild but wet.
Connie Hansen Garden Conservancy in Lincoln City, Oregon
Watering Techniques for Coastal Gardens
Coastal gardens can face water retention challenges due to sandy soil. Adjusting your watering techniques can make a significant difference in plant health. Here are some tips to ensure your garden stays hydrated:
Use Mulch: Applying a thick layer of organic mulch around your plants can help retain moisture. It reduces evaporation and keeps the soil cool.
Drip Irrigation: Consider installing a drip irrigation system for efficient watering. This method targets the roots directly, ensuring that water doesn’t wash away in sandy soils.
Monitor Rainfall: Keep an eye on rainfall patterns. Coastal areas might receive significant rain, which can be beneficial but can also lead to overwatering.
Adjust your watering schedule based on weather conditions, ensuring plants receive adequate hydration without drowning their roots.
Enhancing Soil Quality in Coastal Areas
Soil quality greatly impacts garden success, especially in coastal regions. Although native plants thrive in the natural sandy soil, vegetables and ornamental plants may lack essential nutrients. It may be necessaryl to enhance soil quality for your coastal garden to thrive. Here are some ways to improve the soil:
Add Organic Matter: Incorporate compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the soil. Organic matter improves soil structure, enhances nutrient availability, and increases moisture retention.
Soil Amendments: Test your soil to determine nutrient levels and pH. This can guide you on which amendments to use, such as lime to adjust pH or sulfur for acidity.
Cover Crops: Planting cover crops during the offseason can improve soil health. These crops prevent erosion, add nutrients, and enhance the soil's ability to retain water.
By focusing on these practices, you'll create a nutrient-rich environment that supports healthy plant growth even in challenging coastal conditions.
Embracing the Challenges of Coastal Gardening
Coastal gardening can be challenging, but embracing these challenges allows you to create a unique garden that flourishes in its environment. By understanding the specifics of your region and following best practices, you can transform your garden into a coastal paradise.
Utilizing the right plants, adapting your watering techniques, and improving soil quality are all integral to success. Don't forget that even in the face of coastal weather conditions, with patience and persistence, your garden can thrive.
As garden enthusiasts, let’s explore the full potential of coastal gardening. For more resources, including plant recommendations and gardening tips, visit our Resources page. Flexibility is the key to success, so get out there and test gardening skills along the coast!
Flowering vines make a great addition to your Pacific Northwest garden. They create interesting vertical space,; attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and other pollinators; and they work well as a garden privacy screens.
When choosing vines, you can't go wrong considering one of our lovely natives. Native vines offer a number of benefits. They are well adapted to local soil, water, and weather conditions.
Try any of the following and you be happy with the results.
Clematis Vines
Wisley Cream (shown above), Clematis cirrhosa, has a creamy bell-shaped bloom from November through February. As temperatures cool, the glossy green leaves become a dappled bronze.
Avalanche (Clematis x cartmanii) gives a bundle of white blooms in early spring with attractive lime centers. The foliage on this clematis is almost lace like.
Other Pacific Northwest Native Vines
Orange honeysuckle (Lonicera ciliosa): Also called western honeysuckle, this vine produces red/orange flowers from May through July. Try growing If you want to attract hummingbirds.
Woodbine (Parthenocissus vitacea): good for a variety of soils and sun exposure. It blooms in a variety of hues from May to July.
Whitebark raspberry (Rubus leucodermis): has white or pink blooms in April and May. It is thorny like a raspberry bush and makes not only a privacy barrier but a security device.
I have been waiting for a gardening book like Joe Seals’ <em>Back to the New Basics</em> for quite a long time. Thankfully, he has not burdened us with rote lists of seasonal to-do tasks that tire us out before we even get to them. Seals knows we hanker for knowledge and practices that help us get the desired outcomes we want in the garden. And chief on the list is this: what makes a garden hum and thrum with liveliness and beauty? What is the source of awe we feel upon stepping into such a place? Seals can help us out. His answers come from evidence-based knowledge, solid research, and years of on-the-ground experience. Much of what he urges and recommends is linked to something we all need to know more about—soil health. Soil is a body-like entity with the inherent capability of taking care of itself. In most garden settings it can function fully and robustly—with little intervention on the part of us gardeners.
Back to the New Basics by Joe Seals
Before you lament that you’ll have little to do given the self-sufficiency of soil, hear what Seals has to say. He is not urging inaction. He is saying take action <em>differently</em>, and specifically with the needs of soil in mind. I think the takeaway of Seals’s <em>New Basics</em> is this: less is more. Truly. Less physical and chemical disruption is what your soil wants. Less digging and turning, less dumping and pouring of products from bags and bottles. Seals’s upshot? In most garden settings, leaving soil to its own devices is a good idea. And he’s right.
Back to the New Basics</em> is filled with scads of information to help you modify your gardening practices so that they support—rather than bludgeon or perturb—the belowground plant microbiome and their larger soil-dwelling compatriots. He walks us through some counter-intuitive ideas, busting myths while peppering us with immensely useful information and how-tos. It turns out soil life—from lumbering beetles to multitudes of beneficial microbes around roots—are better equipped than us gardeners in many ways. Their actions can deliver the outcomes we gardeners want. But for them to do so requires nourishment—from you, the gardener.
This is where mulching enters the picture. A steady supply feeds the masses of soil critters and creatures that underpin soil health, and thus the looks and well-being of your garden. Out of sight beneath your feet, they toil away processing, transforming, and cycling organic matter. Their activities ensure that a vast array of nutrients and countless other beneficial compounds reach not just your plants, but the garden’s entire ecosystem. So, instead of digging, tilling, and pouring products into your soil, I think you might want to consider a newfound interest in mulching. And like other practices in <em>Back to the New Basics</em>, a focus on soil health translates into other outcomes we gardeners want—like thwarting pests and pathogens, helping pollinators, decreasing watering, and freaking out less about weeds.
Seals opens the door to a garden we should all enter. He helps us see that a garden humming and thrumming with liveliness and beauty arises from practices that dovetail with how the part of nature beneath our feet actually works. In short, if it’s good for the soil, it’s good for the garden.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) released a new version of its Plant Hardiness Zone Map for the first time since 2012.
USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zone Map is the standard by which gardeners and growers can determine which plants are most likely to thrive at a location. The new map is more accurate and contains greater detail than prior versions. Click on the map to view the entire US.
Generally, the new map reflects about 2.5 degrees of warmer temperatures across the county. About half of the county shifted to a warmer zone with the remaining areas staying the same. The central plains and Midwest warmed the most.
The new Oregon map shows little change overall. The Portland and Willamette Valley areas did not change. Some portions of Salem and Eastern Oregon have shifted a half-zone higher. A thin strip along the southern coast has changed from zone 9b to zone 10.
To find out the status for your garden, use the USDA zip code window to find your new zone.
Master Gardener™ Ann Geyer offers this presentation designed to help you collect rainwater from your downspout and other sources. She also covers ways of holding the water and distributing it to your yard. The presentation was delivered on 11/19/2022 and is about 1 hour and 20 minutes in length.
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