In this edition of the Lincoln County Gardner, guest host Larry King talks with Master Gardener Tom Green about how he uses his new greenhouse. They share tips and tricks for growing vegetables in the greenhouse environment.
In this edition of the Lincoln County Gardner, guest host Larry King talks with Master Gardener Tom Green about building a greenhouse to extend the growing season here in Lincoln County.
In this edition of the Lincoln County Gardner, Ross McCann is on vacation, so Master Gardener Larry King talks with OSU Extension Service employee Stormi Dykes about the Master Gardener program. Stormi administers the program for Lincoln County.
Featured image of gardener by Anil sharma from Pixabay.
In this edition of the Lincoln County Gardner, Ross McCann talks with Master Gardener Pam Crobar about creating a bog garden featuring carnivorous plants. Many of the plants are native to coastal Oregon.
Oregon growing areas for fruits are determined largely by climate. Fruit trees may successfully be grown outside of the areas outlined in the area map, but local climate conditions should be considered wherever trees are planted. The climate map and planting recommendations are courtesy of Oregon State Extension Service.
Gala Apple
Lincoln County is in coastal Area 4, and Low summer temperatures and rain limit fruit growing. Choosing apple varieties can be particularly important along the coast.
Further east in Lincoln County (think Eddyville, Tidewater, etc.) the Growing Area is more similar to that of the mid-valley and you will have access to additional varieties.
Below are those varieties that will flourish in at least one of Lincoln County's Growing Areas:
Variety |
Areas suited |
Approximate time of maturity |
Comments |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Lodi |
1–4 | July | Self-compatiblea; tart, yellow fruit |
|
Earligold |
1–4 | August | Crisp, yellow fruit |
|
Akaneb |
1–4 | August | Self-compatible; crisp, red fruit |
|
Gravenstein |
1, 4 | August | Prefers mild climate; large, flavorful fruit |
|
Chehalisb |
1–4 | September | Self-compatible; fruit are large, yellow, crisp, sweet, and juicy |
|
Elstar |
1, 4 | September | Prefers mild climate; tart, flavorful fruit |
|
Gala |
1–4 | September | Red fruit are sweet, crisp, and juicy; stores well; heat-tolerant |
|
Jonagold |
1, 4 | September | Prefers mild climate; red fruit are sweet, crisp and juicy |
|
Primab |
1–4 | September | Red fruit are crisp and juicy |
|
Empire |
1, 2 | late September | Semi self-compatible; red fruit are sweet and very crisp |
|
Delicious |
1, 2 | late September | Sweet, red fruit; stores well |
|
Libertyb |
1–4 | late September | Red fruit are crisp, sweet and tart |
|
Braeburn |
1, 2 | October | Red fruit are crisp and sweet; stores well; productive |
|
Fuji |
1, 2 | October | Red fruit are very sweet and juicy; stores well |
|
Golden Delicious |
1, 2 | October | Yellow fruit are crisp and juicy; very productive |
|
Granny Smith |
1, 2 | October | Tart, green fruit; stores well |
|
Newtown Pippin |
1, 2 | October | Green to yellow fruit; flavor improves in storage |
Pollination is necessary for fruit production. Some varieties of apples will require a compatible tree for fertilization. The chart above can help you choose compatible or self-compatible trees.
Jonagold Apple
Apple trees are most productive and healthiest when sited in a location that receives at least six hours of light per day during the growing season. Find the spot likely to receive the most sun in your coastal garden and your trees will thrive.
Even though watering worries are reduced in coastal areas, apples still require regular, even moisture. Water when the top inch of soil is dry and the soil 6 inches below the surface is barely moist. Water deeply enough to ensure penetration down to at least 3 to 4 feet deep. Older trees are more self-sufficient but should still be watered deeply during dry summer periods.
Feed your apple trees three to four times during the growing season with an organic, well-balanced fertilizer. Avoid fertilizers too high in nitrogen, as they stimulate leafy growth at the expense of fruit production. A 2- to 3-inch layer of compost as a top-dressing helps retain water and discourages weeds.
The long term success of your apple trees depend upon initial training and pruning during the first three years. For healthy, productive fruit trees, get tips from your local extension office or follow this OSU home orchard pruning and training guide.
Gardening along the coast presents unique challenges and opportunities. The salty air, unpredictable winds, and shifting temperatures require specific strategies to create a thriving garden. From selecting the right plants to understanding when to plant, adapting to coastal weather conditions is an essential aspect of effective gardening. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or just starting out, discover how to make your coastal garden flourish.
Coastal gardening differs significantly from traditional gardening due to various environmental factors. The primary challenges include high salinity, strong winds, and specific soil conditions. Coastal regions often have sandy soil that drains quickly, making water retention a key concern. Understanding these factors will help in choosing the right plants and implementation of effective gardening techniques.
One effective way to adapt to coastal weather is to use windbreaks and barriers. Planting shrubs or erecting fences can shield your garden from harsh winds. Moreover, these structures can also help in retaining moisture in the soil. Native plants are often more resilient to coastal conditions, so look for those that naturally thrive in your area.
A coastal garden thriving with native plants in a protected environment.
Choosing the right plants is crucial for the success of your coastal garden. Opt for native species that have adapted to withstand salt, wind, and drought. These plants not only survive but also enhance the local ecosystem. Consider incorporating the following types of plants into your garden:
In addition to native plants, consider perennial varieties that can handle the temperature fluctuations often seen in coastal environments. These plants will return year after year, providing reliable color and texture.
Timing your planting is essential for thriving coastal gardens. The Oregon coast has a distinct growing season influenced by maritime climate. Generally, the best time to start planting in this region is between late April and early June after the risk of frost has passed.
Keep in mind that the coastal weather can vary significantly from day to day. Be prepared for unexpected temperature drops, which can affect young plants. Using row covers or cold frames can protect them during unexpected cold snaps in the early spring.
Additionally, fall planting can be a good option for certain perennials and bulbs. Ensure you choose plants known for their hardiness to guarantee survival through the winter months, as coastal winters can be mild but wet.
Coastal gardens can face water retention challenges due to sandy soil. Adjusting your watering techniques can make a significant difference in plant health. Here are some tips to ensure your garden stays hydrated:
Adjust your watering schedule based on weather conditions, ensuring plants receive adequate hydration without drowning their roots.
Soil quality greatly impacts garden success, especially in coastal regions. Although native plants thrive in the natural sandy soil, vegetables and ornamental plants may lack essential nutrients. It may be necessaryl to enhance soil quality for your coastal garden to thrive. Here are some ways to improve the soil:
By focusing on these practices, you'll create a nutrient-rich environment that supports healthy plant growth even in challenging coastal conditions.
Coastal gardening can be challenging, but embracing these challenges allows you to create a unique garden that flourishes in its environment. By understanding the specifics of your region and following best practices, you can transform your garden into a coastal paradise.
Utilizing the right plants, adapting your watering techniques, and improving soil quality are all integral to success. Don't forget that even in the face of coastal weather conditions, with patience and persistence, your garden can thrive.
As garden enthusiasts, let’s explore the full potential of coastal gardening. Flexibility is the key to success, so get out there and test gardening skills along the coast!
Sally Reill, Lincoln Co. Master Gardener
Revised January 2017
All root crops do well in our climate, preferring loose deep soil. They generally will need high potassium fertilizer. Seedlings should be thinned to provide ample space for plants to grow.
Carrots: All varieties, but note the mature length; shorter varieties are better suited to heavier soil. Carrots need regular and ample water.
Beets:All beets are good. ’Cylindra’ and ‘Forono’ are excellent 6” to 8” long roots giving you more beet for the space. ‘Touchstone Gold’ and ‘Boldor’ produce sweet, golden beets, ‘Chioggia’ is a nice striped Italian heirloom. The tops are wonderful in salads or sautéed. Beets require boron and our soils are generally deficient, use a fertilizer with micro nutrients.
Radishes: All standard types do very well. Thin seedlings to allow room for larger radishes. Specialty radishes such as Asian varieties may have very specific seasonal planting needs. Some are only suitable for fall or early spring planting. Consult a nursery catalog for information about specific varieties.
Carrots and radishes must be direct seeded. Beets can be started inside and transplanted CAREFULLY after the first or second true leaf appears.
Turnips and Rutabagas are also good possibilities.
Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, Kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts
All brassica seeds should be started inside and transplanted outdoors once risk of frost has passed.
Broccoli: ‘Belstar’ is organic, all season, cold hardy and compact. It produces a large first head & many side shoots. ‘Arcadia’ and ‘Marathon’ are good winter hardy varieties. Consider tall sprouting types too.
Cabbage: ‘Alcosa’, ‘Caraflex’, and ‘Ruby Perfection’, ‘Red Express’ and ‘Integro’ are proven varieties.
Cauliflower: ‘Snow Crown’ is early and almost ‘fool proof; ‘Cheddar’ and ‘Graffiti’ are brightly colored. Cauliflower may not mature properly if plants are too large when transplanted or if temperature extremes occur when they are small.
Kale: All grow well here! ’Wild Garden’, ‘Red Russian’ ‘Redbor’, are varieties to consider. ‘Toscano’ is the sweetest! Ornamental kales are very edible! Kohlrabi: ‘Kolibri’ and ‘Gigante'.
Brussels Sprouts: Plant in early summer for summer planting and fall harvest. Leaves need to be removed between sprouts. All cole crops must be monitored for aphids, slugs and cabbage worms (the larvae of white butterflies). If plants wilt during the day it is likely root maggots, a fly larvae.
The cooler temperatures are good for cool season greens. There are hundreds of lettuce varieties! Look for slow to bolt and tip burn resistance.
Favorite varieties: ‘Winter Density’, ‘Cherokee’, ‘Coastal Star’ ‘Concept’, ’Little Gem’, ‘Bambi’, ‘Merlot’, ‘Buttercrunch’, ‘Red Cross’, ‘Continuity’, ‘Jester’, ‘Celinet’, ’Panisse’, ‘Oscarde’ and ‘Rouxai’. Mesclun or baby leaf blends will give you a nice variety of textures and colors. Spinach, endive frisee′ and escarole grow well in cool seasons.
Chard: Does especially well; ‘Bright Lights’, ‘Ruby Red’, ‘Neon’ and ‘Golden Sunrise’.
Arugula, mustards and micro greens:Most tend to bolt quickly. Seed every few weeks directly in soil to keep a constant supply. Many catalogs have greens mixes, good choices for home gardeners.
Asian/Italian/exotic greens: Most are easy, some may be seasonal or need special circumstances for proper growth, consult catalogs. If you are growing close to the ocean or in a windy location, a cloche will provide protection to produce tender greens.
Green and bulb onions, shallots and leeks are best started from seed to avoid diseases. All varieties do very well. Start seeds in late February or early March for June planting. Green onions/scallions will not form a bulb in our area.
Full size onions: ‘Expression’, ’Candy’, ‘Sierra Blanca’, ‘Red Wing’, ‘Exhibition’, ‘Ailsa Craig’.
Shallots: ‘Conservor’(J, B), ‘Ambition’(B),’Camelot’. Leeks: ‘Lincoln’(N), ‘Megaton’ (J), ‘King Richard’, ‘Lancelot’.
All varieties do well in our coastal climate. Here are a few proven varieties.
Fingerlings: ‘French Fingerling’, ‘Rose Finn Apple’, ‘LaRatte’, ‘Blossom’. ‘Amarosa’ is red flesh with pink interior.
Standard yellow flesh: ‘Yukon Gold’, ‘Red Gold’, ‘German Butterball’, ‘Yellow Finn’.
Blue flesh: ‘Purple Majesty’, ‘All Blue’.
White flesh: ‘Purple Viking’, ‘Red LaSoda’, ‘Red Norland’, ‘Kennebec’, ‘Red Pontiac’. Seed potatoes are available @ farm/garden stores in March. If it is past mid April try catalog vendors.
Oregon named varieties and ‘Cascadia' were developed at OSU to be disease resistant. These are all bush varieties, they will stand up to wind better than tall types.
Sugar pod: ‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’, ‘Oregon Giant’ ‘Sugar Daddy’. Snap: ’Cascadia’, ‘Sugar Sprint’, Shelling: ’Oregon Trail’.
Bean seeds need warm soil to germinate, are easy to start inside in pots and transplant carefully outside after last frost. Dark bean seeds germinate better in cool soil.
Bush:‘Jade’, ‘Derby’, ‘Oregon 54’, ‘Maxibel’(green), ‘Soleil’and ‘Rocdor’(yellow), ‘Jumbo’ (Italian flat).
Pole Beans:These must be trellised, they don’t stand up well to wind but take less space and are more productive. Varieties to consider are: ‘Fortex’, ‘Helda’, (Italian flat).
Summer Squash grows are easy to grow. Plant two plants to improve the pollination of flowers that is required for success.
Coastal favorite:‘Sure Thing Hybrid’ and ‘Paternon’ zucchini produce fruits even when there are no bees and no male flowers!
Zucchini: ’Gadzukes!’, ‘Cocozelle’ , ‘Fordhook’, ‘Cupcake’, ’Gold Rush’, ‘Gold Mine’. Yellow crookneck: ‘Horn of Plenty’, ‘Summerpac’.
Scallop: ‘Sunburst’, ‘Peter Pan’.
Winter squash and pumpkins: These require a long season, good pollination and some warmth to mature. Choose the shortest maturing varieties, under 90 days, for coastal areas. ‘Honey Bear’ acorn does well close to the ocean if it is protected. ‘Sunshine’ and ‘BonBon’ are very sweet, good inland. Butternut squash is a different species and will not cross pollinate with other winter squashes.
Pickling, lemon, standard slicing and seedless types will grow better with protection. Cucumber plants like to be warm and seeds require very warm soil to germinate. Unless it is stated that they set fruit with no pollination, most cucumbers require pollination by bees or insects. The following proven varieties, classed as parthenocarpic, require NO pollination: ‘Sweet Success’, ‘Diva’, ‘Agnes’. Greenhouse and Seedless English varieties: ‘Pepinex’, ‘Socrates’ , ‘Iznik’, ‘Tasty Jade’ are all good.
There are literally 1000s of varieties of tomatoes. A few guidelines will help YOU choose what is right for your circumstances. All tomatoes will do best with protection even in the east county, choose the sunniest spot available. Cherry and grape types are likely to ripen earlier. For the cloche choose Determinate (DET), or dwarf varieties; they will stay shorter. Most tomatoes will do well in a greenhouse with good ventilation. Indeterminate (IND) tomato plants can get quite tall and should be staked or caged; large fruited ‘heirlooms’ may not ripen in this climate. Always choose the earliest varieties. When growing tomatoes in pots, be sure the container is large enough to support a large plant. All tomatoes require good nutrition and a constant supply of water to prevent ‘blossom end rot’.
Peppers must have substantial protection, sun and heat to mature. Hot peppers generally ripen better than sweet varieties. If you can provide full sun and heat most will do well. A closed cloche is a great protection device. Choose short season, early maturing sweet varieties or they will not ripen quickly enough.
Celery: Grows very well, it requires high N, and lots of water. ‘Tango’ is good. Protect from slugs!
Bulb Fennel: ‘Orion’ & ‘Orazio’ can be started inside, are easy to grow and quick to produce nice large bulbs, no major problems.
Corn: Requires a long warm season, can be grown inland if you choose early varieties of 75-80 days or less. I like ‘Luscious’, an organic bi-color.
Tomatillos: Have similar needs as tomatoes with a big, sprawling growth habit, need lots of space.
Eggplant: Difficult to grow in the maritime climate, it requires more heat than peppers, a very sunny, warm spot MAY work.
Artichokes: They like our climate, need lots of space, sun, well-drained soil, and must be protected with mulch during the winter. Artichokes don’t like cold wet roots and may not survive cold winters unless soil is very well drained. They are very attractive to aphids and a good place for earwigs to hide. You will need to be vigilant to keep these pests at bay. Artichoke variety ‘Imperial Star’ will produce chokes the first season.
Asparagus: Long lived perennial, spreads outwards and needs space. VERY attractive to slugs, asparagus MUST be protected before spears emerge, use slug bait or copper strips. Asparagus can be grown from crowns available in the spring or from seed, either way they will take 2-3 years before becoming large enough to eat. You can cut them for approximately six weeks, then leave the spears to grow out and store energy for the following years’ crop. Both crops require substantial space, nutrition and water.
Jerusalem Artichoke or ‘sunchoke’ is actually a tuber that grows underground from roots of a perennial sunflower native to eastern North America. Easy to grow, plant grows 5’-9’ tall and can be very invasive. Grow this in a large container or space where you don’t care if it spreads. Harvest the tubers in fall. It also produces small 3” yellow sunflowers nice for cutting.
Coastal Gardening in the Pacific Northwest, Carla Albright, Taylor Trade Publishing, 2007, 250 pgs. ISBN-13: 978-1589793170
Carla Albright is an Oregon State Master Gardener, teaches OSU Master Gardener classes and writes a gardening column for the Tillamook Headlight Herald while also working as a professional gardener on the Oregon coast.
Her book is a combination of how-to guide, workbook and concise plant encyclopedia. She makes specific plant recommendations that will survive and thrive in our sometimes harsh conditions. The workbook portion are useful for focusing attention on the elements, (salt spray, rainfall, sun, wind) that make up a coastal garden environment. Chapter 7, “Plants To Avoid In Coastal Gardens” is a special favorite of mine.
The book also includes a brief travel guide for coastal public gardens and a compact bibliography pointing us to further research possibilities.
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